Musings 73: Sidhbhari

Perhaps the (his)story of Sidhbari starts circa 700 BCE when sage Kapila trekked across the magnificent Dauldhar ranges of the Himalayas to reach this tiny Pahadi hamlet. Perched in a small cave in one of the hillocks, he continued his spiritual seeking with intense self discipline. The result came out as the Sāmkhya school of the Hindu philosophy, which went on to provide the philosophical foundation for the teachings of a Siddharta Gautama- the Buddha, who would walk this path a hundred years later.

27 centuries have passed since Kapila rishi sat here absorbed deep in Himself. I was fortunate to step into the very same cave yesterday.

In 1959, when the Peoples’ Republic of China invaded Tibet, the 14th Dalai Lama along with his community had to exile to India. They crossed over to India at Tawang (Arunachal Pradesh) and proceeded 2,800 kms north-west to Mcleod Ganj, Dharamsala (Himachal Pradesh). Also known as the little Lhasa, the Tibetan government-in-exile is headquartered here. It is barely 10 kms north-west of the Kapila cave.

5 kms further up is Akanjar Mahadev Temple on the shores of a small but fast flowing ice cold rivulet. The legend goes that Arjun, the mighty Pandava, while preparing for the Mahabharata war, in exile, meditated on its banks and won the Pashupata missile from Mahadev.

Gurudev Swami Chinmayananda established Sandeepany Himalayas at Sidhbari in mid 1970s as the second residential campus for the teaching/training of Advait Vedant. The place was specially chosen for its spiritual climate as it is home to many Siddhas (of various traditions), absorbed in deep meditation for decades and centuries together (not an exaggeration).

It was in this quite valley where Gurudev retired for around 6 months when the Emergency was raging (1975-77) and the former Prime Minister Indira Gandhi revoked his passport and created hurdles in his work (for his open criticism of her subversion of democracy). His days were spent in sadhna and writing commentaries for the Upanishad(s) which continue to serve seekers and scholars across the globe.

Two decades later, when Gurudev attained Mahasamadhi, his mortal remains was brought here and laid to final rest (bhu-samadhi) at the Chinmaya Tapovan Ashram. It stands at 1.5 kms south-west of the Kapila cave.

As I jot down this note, sitting next to Gurudev samadhi sthan, looking at the majestic cloud covered peaks of the Dauladhar, on this Janmasthami Day, a feeling of gratitude is sweeping me over. This Tapo-bhumi has been contributing to the spiritual culture of the world since ages. Sidhbari is quiet, but vigorous.

Humble pranams to life in all forms and beings!

Hearty Janmashtami greetings to one and all!

Hari Om!


Srinath Mohandas
August 14, 2017

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