Musings 73: Sidhbhari

Perhaps the (his)story of Sidhbari starts circa 700 BCE when sage Kapila trekked across the magnificent Dauldhar ranges of the Himalayas to reach this tiny Pahadi hamlet. Perched in a small cave in one of the hillocks, he continued his spiritual seeking with intense self discipline. The result came out as the Sāmkhya school of the Hindu philosophy, which went on to provide the philosophical foundation for the teachings of a Siddharta Gautama- the Buddha, who would walk this path a hundred years later.

27 centuries have passed since Kapila rishi sat here absorbed deep in Himself. I was fortunate to step into the very same cave yesterday.

In 1959, when the Peoples’ Republic of China invaded Tibet, the 14th Dalai Lama along with his community had to exile to India. They crossed over to India at Tawang (Arunachal Pradesh) and proceeded 2,800 kms north-west to Mcleod Ganj, Dharamsala (Himachal Pradesh). Also known as the little Lhasa, the Tibetan government-in-exile is headquartered here. It is barely 10 kms north-west of the Kapila cave.

5 kms further up is Akanjar Mahadev Temple on the shores of a small but fast flowing ice cold rivulet. The legend goes that Arjun, the mighty Pandava, while preparing for the Mahabharata war, in exile, meditated on its banks and won the Pashupata missile from Mahadev.

Gurudev Swami Chinmayananda established Sandeepany Himalayas at Sidhbari in mid 1970s as the second residential campus for the teaching/training of Advait Vedant. The place was specially chosen for its spiritual climate as it is home to many Siddhas (of various traditions), absorbed in deep meditation for decades and centuries together (not an exaggeration).

It was in this quite valley where Gurudev retired for around 6 months when the Emergency was raging (1975-77) and the former Prime Minister Indira Gandhi revoked his passport and created hurdles in his work (for his open criticism of her subversion of democracy). His days were spent in sadhna and writing commentaries for the Upanishad(s) which continue to serve seekers and scholars across the globe.

Two decades later, when Gurudev attained Mahasamadhi, his mortal remains was brought here and laid to final rest (bhu-samadhi) at the Chinmaya Tapovan Ashram. It stands at 1.5 kms south-west of the Kapila cave.

As I jot down this note, sitting next to Gurudev samadhi sthan, looking at the majestic cloud covered peaks of the Dauladhar, on this Janmasthami Day, a feeling of gratitude is sweeping me over. This Tapo-bhumi has been contributing to the spiritual culture of the world since ages. Sidhbari is quiet, but vigorous.

Humble pranams to life in all forms and beings!

Hearty Janmashtami greetings to one and all!

Hari Om!

—
Srinath Mohandas
August 14, 2017

Bali Diary- 21: Love

No matter how much ever one listen, read, talk and write about love, it continues to remain mysteriously alluring. However, if we are reflective enough, every moment presents itself with a lesson on love- adding beauty and depth to the painting that is emerging in our heart’s canvas. My days in Bali are full of such moments.

During a conversation, I mentioned to my friend Ray Suwana that I have no words to express the love and affection that he (and his friends) showers on me. He replied with a smile, “Don’t mention brotha! When we were in India you (Chinmaya family) took good care of us. Also I fondly remember my Chennai-Trichy trip with brother Karthik Krishna. He was our host. He really made us feel at home and the moments we shared together will remain with us forever. So the love we offer you is also what we received from you (Chinmaya family).” I was overwhelmed. It was a lesson on life- that we treat people based on our own experiences. More we experience love the more we are inspired to give.

Unfortunately (or fortunately?), we cannot adopt a rights based approach here. It is not a civil right. To love is not a right but a privilege! All we can do is to actively love.

Now it makes sense to me when wise men and women of ancient and modern ages lead movements on the theme of (spreading) love. Love always has been the central theme of religions! How can it be not? It is the only way to make heaven upon earth!

Love has this wondrous ability to empower both the lover and the beloved. It is like the light of a diya. A diya once lit can light a thousand more, glowing all the while as bright as ever! A heart that is inspired by love is a lighted diya that spread its light (love) far and wide, lighting many more diya(s) on the way.

I am fortunate to be with a few of such lighted diya(s).

 

Bali Diary- 20: Relationship/ Guru

All relationships are beautiful and sacred. Yet if asked to pick one among all the varieties, what will you choose? I guess the vote will be between mother-child and ‘lover-beloved’ relationships!

Most of us aren’t aware of the bliss of Guru-shishya bandha (Guru-disciple relationship). It is special because it has a flavour of all relationships (with an exception of romance) that warms our heart and makes us more loving and lovable. It is perhaps for this reason that Guru stotram (Sanskrit) describes the relationship in following words-

twam eva mata cha pita twam eva,
twam eva bhandu’cha sakha twam eva,
twam eva vidya dravinam twam eva,
twam eva sarvam ma’ma deva deva

You truly are my mother, You truly are my father,
You truly are my relative, You truly are my friend,
You truly are knowledge, You truly are wealth,
You truly are my All, My God of Gods!

With Guru, every moment one learns. This I believe is the essence of the word Upa-ni-shad which literally means ‘near-down-sit’. “To sit NEAR” Guru means to be with Guru (in thoughts) always. “To sit DOWN” emphasises the need for humility. Knowledge is revealed only to that mind which is humble (receptive).

Ask me to describe Guru in a word. Compassion it is! There are no words called ‘sin’ and ‘condemn’ in His/ Her vocabulary. He/ She has infinite patience and is a well-wisher forever. He/She is a doting parent yet a firm teacher!

Do I know enough to say all this? Perhaps not. But I must say that I have experienced it in glimpses!

What inspired me to write this? I saw some beautiful Guru-shishya bandha in Ashram Gandhi Puri (AGP). 

………………………………………………………………….

Guru is not somebody ready-made who can be subscribed online. Meeting one’s Guru is the culmination of years (many lives!) of sadhana (spiritual seeking). One may take the assistance of fellow seekers (who are more evolved) in seeking. They at best are Upa-Guru. So, let us not be in a hurry to subscribe to a Guru. Do you have faith? If yes, take this word of scriptures- “When the seeker is ready, Guru arrives!”

Let us ready ourselves with sincere sadhana.

Bali Diary- 16: TOLAK REKLAMASI (Stop Reclamation)/ Issues

Attended a citizen’s collective against Indonesia Govt.’s proposal to reclaim land (from the ocean) in Bali.

Tanjung Benoa used to be a small fishing village in Bali. With the flourish of tourism in last few decades, it transformed into the most sought after beach side destination of the island. The development of the area has hit the ceiling and further development is possible only by reclaiming land from the ocean. The Govt. is keen to go ahead with the plan and develop it as an exclusive and luxury tourist resort, entertainment and business centre. Environmentalists, artists, scholars and local residents have expressed their strong opposition for the move and have been holding protests ever since.

Today, the socio-cultural organisations of Bali came together and showed a novel way of protest. After gathering at the local temple for puja, the activists headed to the ocean in fishing boats. About two kilometres into the ocean, they performed Agni-hotra (in the boat). It was complete with offering of dravya (materials) and lasted for an hour. It was followed by shouts of Tolak Reklamasi (stop reclamation).

Indra Udayana, the founder and Acharya of Ashram Gandhi Puri (AGP) attended the Agni-hotra and pledged solidarity with the collective.

 

Bali Diary- 15: Legong at Blahbatuh palace/ Culture

Last evening was spent at the legendary Blahbatuh palace enjoying the traditional Legong dance of Bali. Thanks to my host and mentor, I was fortunate to be one of the guests of the Queen at the function.

After a sumptuous dinner, we sat in the second row to witness the acclaimed dance form as performed by the most respected professionals of the art. The performance started by introducing musicians belonging to two Legong traditions. Grandly dressed in the traditional attire and equipped with the native musical instruments, the groups sat on sides of the sacred space (mandapa). They played some exquisite music and set the stage for the entry of dancers. Soon, beautiful ladies adorned in the Legong attire walked down the steps of the temple and began their celestial dance with grace extraordinaire. As artificial lights started taking effect, the dancers glowed in a multitude of shades reminding me the stories of apsaras (celestial nymphs) of Indra’s royal court (heaven). They were enacting the story of the divine couple- Gouri-Shankara (Shiva-Parvati).

Though a lay person in appreciating dance, I could make out that it is a highly refined dance form involving extremely delicate movements of the body. The expressive face of the dancers conveyed a plethora of moods with an unbelievable ease lifting the audience to a higher plane of experience. I couldn’t but compare it to Indian traditional dance forms of Bharatanatyam, Mohiniyattam and Kathak. In terms of facial expression and body movements I thought it resembled Mohiniyattom the most. Like any other refined artist, a Legong dancer is the result of years of rigorous sadhana (single minded pursuit of a goal). The girls start training at an age as early as 5 years!

Balinese are extremely proud of their arts (culture in general). In his opening remark, a member of the royal family observed that their intention is to change to the practise of reducing the sacred art form to a piece of entertainment for tourists at resorts (and other centres of commerce). “Instead of our artists going to them, we want them to come to us and appreciate its greatness”, he declared while reiterating the Royal family’s commitment to popularise and uphold the sanctity of the art form.

I wish we Indians are as culturally inspired as the Balinese.

 

Bali Diary- 13: Life

One of the inmates of ashram is a bright young girl from the neighbouring island of Sulawesi. After secondary school she was forced to quit studies and sit at home to take care of her younger brother. But the burning desire to study did not let her accept fate. She managed a loan from a friend’s family, convinced parents, and came to Bali to join an Under Graduate programme in Philosophy- the love of her life!

University scholarship and a part time job sustained her in the initial months but things took a bad turn when her father was struck by lightning while working in paddy field. Mentally down, she stayed with her friend for a few days and was referred to Ashram Gandhi Puri (AGP). AGP welcomed her with open arms and now supports her financially and emotionally. At the ashram, she also did a short term course on ‘tendon therapy’ (vocational training) and now serves the local community with the newly acquired skill.

Lately, she has developed a deep love for Sanskrit. Endowed with a strong and beautiful voice, her style of singing is suited for Vedic chant. She puts in serious effort to learn the hymns of Gita, Upanishad and keertans. Whenever guests from India visit ashram, she would sit with them for long hours trying to grasp the meaning of complex Sanskrit verses. She has greatly improved her accent. She is loved by one and all.

I wish her all success. _/\_

Bali Diary- 10: Majestically carved!

Bali is also home to majestic sculptures. Every single house is generously decorated with exquisite stone carvings. Some of the finest samples of stone and wood carvings could be seen in the Balinese temples. Even the traffic islands of the city are adorned with it. As one travels from Denpasar to the interior (villages) of the island, scores of road side work spaces of stone and wood carvings could be seen. Beautiful statues lined on sides of the road are simply a treat to the eyes! The popular ones are the statues of Ganesha, Vishnu and Buddha, also Dwara-palakas (ancient gate-keepers) and mythical dragons. They are available in all sizes and poses.

The Balinese sculptors and their carvings have a great demand in the international market. A bulk of the statues is exported to Europe, Australia and India. However they mostly remain as decorator art in spas, hotels etc. Since Balinese Hinduism does not practise murthy puja (deity worship) they do not attribute a spiritual value to it.

 

The interesting aspect about Balinese sculptures (except for the Hindu and Buddhist ones) is that their mood and expression are a combination of Bhayanaka (fear instilling) and Veera (heroic). It has an unmistakable influence of the Chinese art. Even more interesting is that they strikingly resemble the South Indian art, especially the Tamil ‘grama-devata’ sculptures!

Bali Diary- 9: Balinese Hinduism a.k.a Agama Hindu Dharma

 

The Hindu history of Bali (Indonesia) is 1,600 years old. The island’s tryst with the Veda was achieved when sage Markandeya set sail from Bharat (India) in 4 century A.D. In the millennia that followed, Balinese culture evolved through a brilliant synthesis of the native traditions (based on beliefs in ancestral spirits, godly and demonic forces, larger nature worship etc.) and the Vedic philosophy, giving birth to the Agama Hindu Dharma. With 93% Hindu population, Bali is a thriving centre of the ancient religion.

The Balinese culture has an overwhelming influence of Advait Vedant. Unlike in India, Balinese temples (known as ‘Pura’) do not have a Murthi (presiding deity) and hence are alien to nitya puja (daily ritualistic worship). The empty shrines of the temples stand as a metaphor to the Un-manifest nature of God referred to as Achintya- the unthinkable which is equivalent to the ‘Brahman’ of Vedant. However, the tradition of worshipping Achintya through Tri Shakti- Brahma (the Creator), Vishnu (the Sustainer) and Shiva (the Transformer), the manifested form, can also be found. The manifested form of the Omniscient God is also referred to as Ida Sang Hyang Widhi Wasa in the vernacular.

Bali has also adopted the Hindu social norm of Varna system. The four fold castes viz. Brahmana (the scholarly), Kshatriya (the administrator), Vaishya (the wealth creator) and Shudra (the service oriented) are integral to its society. Unfortunately, like in India, this form of social organisation has fallen to a mere birth based categorisation.

 

Bali Diary- 3: Galungan a.k.a Pitr bali

My yatra coincided with the most auspicious Galungan of the Balinese people!

Taittiriya samhita (Yajur veda) points out that every individual is born with three debts viz. deva rin (debt to the devatas), rishi rin (debt to the sages) and pitr rin (debt to the ancestors); to be repaid in his/her life time. Galungan celebrated by the Balinese Hindus stems from this ancient tradition. It also is a fusion of the two Indian festivals viz. Navaratri and Pitru bali.

Galungan celebrated over a period of 10 days is the most auspicious and joyful time for the Balinese. The festival which celebrates the victory of ‘Dharma’ (righteousness) and the home coming of the spirits of the ancestors, appears twice in a Gregorian year as the dates are calculated according to the ‘210 days Balinese calendar’. It is also the time for the extended families to get-to-gather.

The enchanting island of Bali gets an additional touch of beauty on these days with the display of Penjors- decorated bamboo poles weighed down by the offerings suspended at the ends. Colourful kites also adorn the skyline infusing the spirit of festivity in one and all. It ends with Kuningan, the last (10th) day of the festival, when people go to their family temples and pay tribute to the ancestors.

Bali Diary- 4: Land of Gods/ Art

Balinese people have an incredible sense of art! The choice of colours, the ways of dressing, arrangement of space, floral decorations, designs and patterns- each and everything they do are expressions of sublime art. It is not at all a surprise that this island is home to most beautiful traditions of dance, music and architecture.

Young boys and girls are exposed to and trained in traditional dance forms from a very young age. This not only ensures that the traditions are handed down to generations in an unbroken chain but also inculcates a basic sense of art appreciation in individuals from a very young age. They adore beauty. May be this is the secret of their land becoming home to Gods!